This step may not be needed if all wood surfaces are perfectly sound. However, if it shows signs of water deterioration, give it a coat of pre-treatment. When you apply a pre-treatment to the bare wood [A] , put it on the sash both faces , muntin bars, and muntins.
If you are using consolidating oil, put it in the glazing rabbets, too, and also add extra at each joint so it soaks in and treats the end-grain within.
Be careful not to apply pre-treatment to the side edges of the sashes and top edge of the upper sash. Let the treatment dry before proceeding. This prevents the wood from absorbing too much oil from the putty, which can lead to putty adhesion problems. Safety Tip: Old windows usually contain lead paint—always follow lead-safe work practices. For more information, visit epa. All surfaces and arrises should feel smooth.
Sand off nibs and whiskers, then dust with a HEPA vacuum and tack cloth. Prime all the surfaces of the sash except the side edges that run in the tracks and the face margins. Do not prime the glazing rabbets if they were pre-treated with an oil-resin. Allow to dry thoroughly. If you are priming the glazing rabbets, start by brushing a little puddle of primer on at each joint [B] ; it will soak into the joint and help seal the end-grain.
Leaving some primer puddled on the surface at the joints also makes it easier and quicker to get primer into the corners when you come back to brush the primer out across the surface. As above, sand off any nibs and whiskers until all surfaces feel smooth. Dust with a HEPA vacuum or brush and tack cloth. Re-prime any spots or areas of bare wood where sanding removed the primer.
Start by making sure all the panes fit by laying them in place in the sash. When you take them out, keep them in an order you can remember so they go back where they belong.
Warm up the putty by kneading it in your hand, then press the putty into the glazing rabbet with your fingers, thumb, or the heel of your hand [C]. Place each pane of glass on the bedding putty, making sure the bottom edge of glass rests on the neck of the lower glazing rabbet. Jiggle the pane slightly with your fingers along the edges so it beds down into the putty. You should have some putty squeezing out along all the edges of the glass. If you can feel a breeze around your closed windows, consider these quick-and-easy ways to block drafts.
Such stopgap measures eliminate air leaks by sealing sash perimeters from indoors. Come spring, add or replace weatherstripping for a longer-lasting fix. Ask This Old House general contractor Tom Silva shims a window that has fallen out of parallel due to improper installation. Windows bring in light, open up horizons, and provide a link to the outside world.
These window cleaning tips will make them—and your house—shine. Heat that goes out the window accounts for up to a quarter of heating bills, according to the U. Department of Energy. No need to cloak panes in winter woolens though that might work. Learn how to cover drafty windows with stylish layers instead.
Ask This Old House general contractor Tom Silva helps a homeowner give his antique window a lift by installing new sash balancers.
Cookie banner We use cookies and other tracking technologies to improve your browsing experience on our site, show personalized content and targeted ads, analyze site traffic, and understand where our audiences come from. By choosing I Accept , you consent to our use of cookies and other tracking technologies. By Tom Silva. How to Drill Through Glass Learn how to safely drill a hole in glass without chipping, cracking, or shattering it to pieces.
How to Prevent Condensation on Windows Window condensation is an ideal breeding ground for mold and mildew. Can't be shaped and milled like wood, and is more expensive. Cookie banner We use cookies and other tracking technologies to improve your browsing experience on our site, show personalized content and targeted ads, analyze site traffic, and understand where our audiences come from.
By choosing I Accept , you consent to our use of cookies and other tracking technologies. All About Wood Windows. By Mark Feirer. Pinterest Email Pocket Flipboard. Sash Movable or fixed frame that supports the glazing.
Casing Trim that covers the gap between the jambs and house framing. Sill Bottom part of the frame; angled to shed water. Jambs Sides and top of the frame that surround the sashes.
Glazing Window glass. Muntins Slender strips that divide the glazing. Sash Lock Hardware that secures the top and bottom sashes. How Long Do They Last? Can You Install Them Yourself? Photo by David Barry Start shopping for replacements when the following problems crop up: Extensive Rot Small pockets of decay can be scraped out and filled, but if the sill and jambs are severely compromised, there's no saving them.
Fogged Glass When the perimeter seal on a double-glazed window fails, the condensation that collects between the panes of glass spoils the view and reduces energy efficiency. Poor Function Is a sash hard to open or will it not stay open? Inappropriate Style A 19th-century Italianate fitted with modern replacement casements, for instance, will have infinitely more curb appeal with new wood double-hungs that match the look of the original windows.
Use if a jamb or sill is shot. You keep existing sill and jambs. Pro: Easiest to install. Trim not affected. Goes in from the inside. Computer simulations create the key numbers for each window 1. Energy Star The shaded portions of the accompanying map show where the window meets regional Energy Star performance criteria.
U-Factor Measures how well a window stops heat flow, on a scale of 0. Visible Transmittance VT : Tells how much light passes through; 0 is opaque, 1 is transparent. Cost: Off the Shelf Photo by Courtesy of Jeld-Wen Good for tight budgets and for new construction where you can frame the opening to fit units in just a handful of standard sizes. Where to Buy: Home centers and lumberyards. Styles: Plain-vanilla double-hungs or casements, often without muntins.
Hardware: Painted metal crank. Glazing: Double-pane; not eligible for tax credit. Wood: Unprimed pine. Wait: Up to three days, maximum. Where to buy: Home centers, lumberyards, window retailers. Glazing: Low-e, triple glazed, patterned, laminated. Wait: Four weeks, minimum. Where to buy: Window retailers.
Styles: You name it. Hardware: More crank styles in custom finishes or solid bronze. Glazing: The works, including leaded art glass. Wait: Six weeks, minimum. Double-Pane: Much more efficient than single-pane, it can be improved further with heat-reflective low-e coatings and by filling the space between the glass sheets with a denser-than-air gas, such as krypton or argon. Triple-Pane: It's the best barrier against the cold but reduces light transmission and adds weight and cost.
Self-Cleaning: A titanium-dioxide coating reacts with sunlight to loosen dirt, which washes off in the rain. Unbreakable: An invisible layer of plastic sandwiched between two sheets of standard glass helps to foil intruders, block sound, and withstand earthquakes and hurricanes.
Muntin Choices: Grille in Glass Illustration by Rodico Prato An aluminum grille sits permanently between two glass panes, hinting at the look of actual muntins. Muntin Choices: Removable Grille Illustration by Rodico Prato A wood grid on the indoor surface of the window is held in place with metal or plastic clips on the edge of the sash. What's a Clad Window?
Photo by John O'Hagan Paint is the traditional way to protect wood windows from the elements, but it requires ongoing maintenance to keep the finish intact. Alternatives to Wood: Aluminum Photo by Darrin Haddad Durable; needs virtually no maintenance beyond an occasional washing.
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